Scales in Textiles Conference Brochure. Aalto University Helsinki
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posted on 2025-12-01, 16:47 authored by Tincuta HeinzelTincuta Heinzel, Bee KingBee King, Dani StricklandDani Strickland, Tokumoto, Yukihiro, Tomohiro Inoue<p dir="ltr">ArcInTex Network Conference, 8-10 April 2025, School of Arts, Design and Architecture, Aalto University, Helsinki, Finland</p><p dir="ltr"><b>CAPACITIVE FOLDING JACQUARD WEAVE:</b> The series of samples are resulting from the collaboration between the Kyoto Prefectural Institute for Northern Industry and the international Textiles Summer School in Kyoto network initiated and directed by Prof. Julia Cassim. The aim is to explore new product possibilities using the weave, yarn, and process technology of Tango chirimen crêpe, a traditional kimono fabric from Kyoto. The project combines multi-layered self-pleated structure of textiles with the principle of capacitance, sensing the changes in capacitance caused by the expansion and contraction of the pleats to produce a sound as with an accordion. Conceived as a pedagogical tool, the aim was to introduce the students to both Jacquard weave and the notion of capacitance in e-textiles. The design concept pays homage to Issey Miyake’s ‘Pleats, Please!’. This work was developed during Kyoto Textiles Summer School initiated and directed by <b>Prof. Julia Cassim</b>. The concept of the project was advanced by <b>Dr. Tincuta </b><b>Heinzel</b> and to pay homage to Issey Miyake’s ‘Pleats, Please!’. Tincuta Heinzel is the author of the preliminary drawings and weaving notations, <b>Yukihiro Tokumoto</b> contributed to the final technical files and weaved the prototype, <b>Tomohiro Inoue</b> developed the digital visual and audio interface; <b>Suguru Goto</b> composed the sound samples.</p><p dir="ltr"><b>WEAVED COIL: </b>The samples reunited here are part of series of research related to the development of textiles-based sensors. The focus was on the construction of a weaved Rogowski coil low-cost sensor which can measure load on a 3 core cable. The modelling and three embroidered prototypes have been presented here: https://ietresearch.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1049/stg2.12047. For “Scale in Textiles” exhibition we present the preliminary prototypes and the weaved coil samples, as well as a poster with the technical details and preliminary analysis related to the weaved coil samples. This work is the result of <b>Prof. Dani Strickland’s</b> research on low–cost sensing technology for 3 core cables for smart energy grids to substitute the present-day more expensive Rogowski –coil technology. The electronic circuit was designed by Prof. Dani Strickland. The weaved coils prototypes were developed by <b>Dr. </b><b>Tincuta Heinzel </b>and <b>Cosmina Maria Anghel</b>. The embroidered prototypes were developed by <b>Bee King</b>.<b> </b><b>Dr. Mina Abedi Varnosfaderani</b> ran the measuring of the developed sensors. <b>Alana Zeidler</b> (Leeds University, UK) and <b>Dr. Rob Seager</b> (Loughborough University, UK) contributed to the modelling of the developed sensor.<br><br>© the editors, shared with permissions</p>
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