Investigating knitwear product development in small and medium enterprises: a report of practices related to environmental sustainability

There is rising interest into the inner workings of the fashion supply chain due to increasing concern surrounding environmental impact, social responsibility, and economic growth. Studies designed to understand the fashion industry often presume the knitwear sector to follow the linear product development process of the woven garment sector. However, knitwear practitioners are profoundly aware of many complex distinctions, one example being the ability to seamlessly create three dimensional garments with minimal finishing. In spite of these differences, there is little known research which specifically identifies the current knitwear design and manufacture system, or how often such seamless production methods are utilised. To bridge the gap in knowledge, a quantitative questionnaire was designed for a holistic overview of the key product development processes within knitwear small and medium enterprises (SMEs). The questionnaire had three focuses, design, manufacture, and retail, reflecting the sectors dynamism. 31 companies of varying sizes completed the survey, of these, 26 designed knitwear, 25 manufactured it, and 21 companies retailed directly to consumers. Results showed that the sampled SMEs have a keen interest in developing sustainable products, albeit at surface level, with most choosing to reduce impact through their material and fibre choices, with less importance placed on manufacturing processes. Other revelations included the low uptake of 3D garment simulation software, designed to reduce the need for multiple prototypes and the reliance on cut and sew processes. This study revealed several areas where environmental impact can be reduced and aims to inform future studies within the knitwear industry focused on material use, product life-cycle analysis, waste reduction and digital technology adoption.