An enzyme-based process was investigated to achieve surface patterning of fabrics as an alternative to
conventional chemical processes. In the current study, the enzyme protease was employed to selectively
modify a wool/polyester blended fabric to impart decorative surface effects. Controlled protease processing of the blended fabric dyed with Lanasol Blue CE enabled the degradation and removal of the dyed
wool fibre component from the fabric blend, resulting in novel fading and differential fabric relief due to
degradation of wool, revealing the undyed polyester component after enzyme treatment. A 38.5% weight
loss was achieved, therefore 85.6% of the wool in the 45/55% wool/polyester blended fabric was removed
from the structure. The activity of protease is highly specific, therefore, it caused no damage to the
polyester component. The control studies led to the development of surface pattern designs using the
enzyme process, achieving effects similar to current processes such as devore and discharge printing.
This novel enzyme process permits the replacement of harsh chemicals used in current surface
patterning processes with small doses of biodegradable enzymes.
Funding
The authors would like to thank the Arts and Humanities
Research Council (AHRC) for funding the collaborative LEBIOTEX
Project (AH/J002666/1) between De Montfort University and
Loughborough University.
History
School
The Arts, English and Drama
Department
Arts
Published in
Journal of Cleaner Production
Volume
211
Pages
909 - 921 (13)
Citation
PRAJAPATI, C.D. ... et al., 2019. Selective enzymatic modification of wool/polyester blended fabrics for surface patterning. Journal of Cleaner Production, 211, pp. 909 - 921.
This paper was accepted for publication in the journal Journal of Cleaner Production and the definitive published version is available at https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.11.079.