Sustainability without compromises: evaluating the long-term quality of recycled versus virgin polyester sportswear
As a large contributor to environmental pollution, the sports apparel industry is transforming towards greater sustainability and circularity (Niinimäki et al., 2020). Extending the lifespan of garments and switching to more sustainable/recycled fibres are among the most effective ways of reducing the industry’s environmental impact (ECOS, 2021; United Nations Climate Change, 2021; Wiedemann et al., 2021; WRAP, 2017) . These suggestions are also increasingly adopted in policies (Directorate General for Environment, 2022). However, the market share of recycled fibres is stagnating, and the utilisation/life span of garments has decreased in recent years (MacArthur, 2017; Textile Exchange, 2023). It is suggested that both are related to quality(Aakko & Niinimäki, 2022; Botwinick & Lu, 2022; Cassidy, 2017; Gabrielli et al., 2013; Joy et al., 2012; K. M. Laitala et al., 2015; López et al., 2014; Majumdar et al., 2020; Niinimäki et al., 2020; Wagner & Heinzel, 2020). Therefore, the focus of this thesis was to investigate the long-term material and perceived quality of recycled and virgin polyester sportswear.
In Chapter 2, Expert interviews and a consumer survey were conducted to conceptualise sports clothing quality from the perspective of industry professionals and consumers. Chapter 3 examines the evolution of material and perceived quality of sports T-shirts made from virgin polyester, mechanically recycled polyester, and mechanically recycled polyester containing ocean plastic over 18 months of real-life wear. Chapter 4 examines in-store perceived quality and material quality of the same T-shirts after repeated washing, comparing the findings with those from real-life wear (Chapter 3). Chapter 5 explores the perception of touching the T-shirts, while Chapter 6 investigates the perception and physiological responses during exercise while wearing the sports T-shirts. Key outcomes are: 1) A holistic sports clothing quality framework that provides a terminological basis for communicating and measuring sports clothing quality. 2) Recycled and virgin polyester T-shirts demonstrated consistent perceived quality over extended wear and repeated washing. 3) Despite significant but small differences in certain fabric parameters between wash-ageing and wear-ageing, a repeated wash cycle test is proposed as a practical and effective method to simulate material quality changes that occur during real-life wear. 4) In situations where clothing is mainly perceived by touch and trying on, perceptions of clothing quality and comfort differed between recycled and virgin polyester sports T-shirts. The recycled polyester T-shirts were perceived to be of higher quality than the virgin polyester T-shirts. No differences were found between sports T-shirts made from recycled and virgin polyester during real-life wear and exercise perception.
Overall, this thesis has provided a detailed insight into the long-term quality of recycled and virgin polyester sportswear and how best to test for longevity in garments. Findings are relevant for the development and marketing of sports clothing.
Funding
Environmental Ergonomics Research Centre, School of Design and Creative Arts, Loughborough University
adidas Concept Excellence Team
History
School
- Design and Creative Arts
Department
- Design
Publisher
Loughborough UniversityRights holder
© Lars ClaußenPublication date
2025Notes
A Doctoral Thesis. Submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the award of the degree of Doctor of Philosophy of Loughborough University.Language
- en
Supervisor(s)
George Havenith; Alex Lloyd; Daniel RuizQualification name
- PhD
Qualification level
- Doctoral
This submission includes a signed certificate in addition to the thesis file(s)
- I have submitted a signed certificate