Mainly used for decorative purpose in the textile industry, lace is a type of lightweight,
openwork fabric. The process of lace manufacturing is complex but much of it has been
highly automated with the advancement of modern technology. One exception is the lace
cutting operation which is used to cut the wide lace webs (as wide as 3.8 m) knitted from
automatic knitting machines into individual lace breadths. Currently, lace cutting IS
carried out by skilled operators or a low speed mechanical cutting system, leading to high
cost and increased product lead times. Therefore the lace cutting operation has become a
bottleneck of the whole process oflace manufacturing and its automation is highly desired.
Based on the combination of machine vision and laser cutting technology, two automatic
lace cutting systems have been developed in Loughborough University, which have fully
demonstrated the feasibility of replacing the slow and expensive traditional lace cutting
methods. However, the edge quality of the lace cut by these systems is not satisfactory
enough to meet the requirements of demanding lace markets.
In this thesis, based on the investigation of the effect of handling tension on lace cutting
edge quality and the microstructure of lace, a strategic lace cutting solution has been
presented. The cutting strategy is aimed at tensioning and exposing the loop thread by
strategically tensioning and cutting individual threads. The loop thread is considered
critical to cutting lace with a high quality finish. To automatically implement the cutting
strategy, a machine vision system has been developed.
An automatic lace transport and tensioning rig has been designed and manufactured. The
long term aim of this rig is to be able to transport and tension lace continuously for lace
cutting and apply localised tension on individual threads with the vision system providing
feedback for tension control. The work in this thesis has been limited to manual
adjustment of the rig to prove the initial ideas for this concept.
An integrated vision guided, pulsed laser cutting system for lace cutting has been
developed, based on which two types of representative lace have been cut. According to
the assessment results of using a combination of user trials, microscopic and newly
developed measurement techniques, the lace cut by this newly developed system has
shown significant improvement in cutting edge quality, when compared to the lace cut by
the previous laser cutting systems.
History
School
Mechanical, Electrical and Manufacturing Engineering
This work is made available according to the conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0) licence. Full details of this licence are available at: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/
Publication date
2006
Notes
A Doctoral Thesis. Submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the award of Doctor of Philosophy of Loughborough University.